MALINALCO--Mexico's Shangri-La

One way to deal with the craziness of living in Mexico City is to escape to the country once in a while, and my favorite place to go is Malinalco, a magical spot hidden in the mountains of the Estado de Mexico.

The Aztec goddess Malinalxóchitl thought the place magical enough to call it home, and the Mexican government officially endorsed her opinion when it included Malinalco in its Pueblos Mágicos program, which protects and promotes small town culture.

“I knew it was magical the first time I saw it more than 20 years ago,” said Adriana Pérez de Legaspi, one of a small group of Mexico City residents who have weekend homes here, and who offers tours and cooking classes in ‘pre-Hispanic gastronomy’. “There’s a feeling of something ancient here, something secure and grounded. ”

Located 110 km (65 miles) southwest of Mexico City, Malinalco feels like another world. It’s nestled in a lush, semi-tropical valley where flowering shrubs, tumbling vines, banana and palm trees grow in jungle-like abundance, and undulating mountains frame every vista. Adobe houses with red-tiled roofs and painted stucco walls line the streets around the main plaza; an Aztec shrine, carved into the hillside, presides over the valley.

The division between town and country is blurred here. There’s only one asphalt road, bisecting the town east to west. Other streets are of cobbled stone, fading off into well-trodden dirt pathways, old creek beds, and winding animal tracks.

Exploring the hills around the town you’ll find rock carvings and paintings that date back to 600 B.C. When the Aztecs showed up in the 1400’s they built a ceremonial site known as the Cerro de los Idolos (Hill of the Idols). A zigzag staircase of 427 steps leads to the site, where priests once offered sacrifices to the Aztec gods (closed Mondays).

Down below, just off the main plaza, is another sacred spot, the imposing Church of the Divine Savior, founded by Augustinian monks in 1543. The adjacent cloister is painted with murals depicting local flora and fauna, a mix of indigenous and Spanish artistic influences.

In the market, women with long braids and carefully ironed aprons sell hand-made tortillas and fresh cheese wrapped in cornhusks. The produce spread out for sale looks pre-historic: edible, scarlet colorín flowers, pink guavas, granadas chinas (the fruit of the passionflower), wild blue mushrooms, and guajes, wrinkly green pods whose seeds are used to flavor tacos and guacamole.

Several street food stalls stand against the high stone walls of the church yard. Locals and tourists alike line up for specialties like tacos of cecina adobada (dried, spiced beef) or tlacoyos de haba (oblong corn cakes filled with fava beans). The enchiladas verdes I ate at one stand were the best I’ve had in Mexico. The ice cream at Malinalli, across the plaza, is made with those exotic fruits you saw in the market like mamey, zapote, or guanábana. There are several 'nice' restaurants, too, like Los Placeres on the plaza across from the church, which has great food and atmosphere. The local tamales, sold from baskets by women in the market, are flat--they look like they've been run over by a truck--but are delicious. 

Malinalco, whose population is around 7000, is primarily a town of agricultural workers, but it’s been a getaway for privileged city residents for decades--in a flea market in Mexico City I found a travel magazine from 1948 with a cover story on Malinalco. Smaller and less developed than weekend retreats like Valle de Bravo and Tepotzlán, it has a few high-end hotels, a handful of good restaurants, two art galleries, and a private golf community. At the elegant Ollinyotl holistic center (https://www.ollinyotl.com.mx) you can get a massage, take a yoga class, or wander in their meditation labyrinth.

Politicians, corporate executives, a museum director and even the grandson of Diego Rivera have homes here. But most of the wealth is discretely hidden behind high, bougainvillea-clad walls, and on the roads around town you’re more likely to encounter a stray cow or a herd of sheep than a Mercedes Benz.

“It’s Mexico’s best kept secret, “ says Ada Marie King, a travel consultant, who along with her architect husband, Lynn Wallach, were among the first foreigners to buy property here. “Mexicans have heard about the town, but the lousy roads keep people away.” Indeed, my arrival by car felt a bit like slalom skiing as I swerved frequently to avoid big potholes. But the difficulty in getting there heightens the pleasure of arrival.

Like the mythical Shangri-La, Malinalco seems to exist in another time. Although you are able to connect to the internet and find a decent cappuccino, it’s the feeling that nothing has changed for centuries that makes this place truly magical.

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TRAVEL TIPS:

By car from Mexico City, head toward Toluca (toll road), exit at km 32 (toward Chalma), then follow signs to Malinalco (MX15 is the road number).

By bus from Terminal Observatorio, there are a few direct, second-class buses in the afternoon. Otherwise take a bus to Chalma (they leave every 30 minutes) and then a taxi (40 pesos) to Malinalco, 10 km away. Look for the Aguila Bus Line.

There is a kiosk in the main plaza where you can get tourist information.

Holistic Spa: http://www.ollinyotl.com/malinalco.html

Pre-Hispanic Gastronomy Tours: https://www.facebook.com/adrianaperezdelegaspi

Hand woven rebozos: http://xoxopastli.blogspot.com/

Wednesday is market day when the streets fill with vendors of everything from avocados to zippers—lively and fun.

August 6^th is the Feast of San Salvador, the town’s biggest fiesta. There's lots going on during the week leading up to that date.
Airbnb.com offers a number of houses in Malinalco.
The stunning pre-Hispanic site Xochicalco is only one hour from Malinalco:

one hour from Malinalco is a good day trip:

http://mexicocitydf.blogspot.com/2016/03/a-sunday-drive-xochicalco-and-beyond.html

Cuernavaca is also about an hour from Malinalco. Be sure to eat here: http://lasmananitas.com.mx/es/home/

View of the vally of Malinalco

Hand-woven mats sold in the market

COLONIA ROMA, Part 2: BRAD'S PAD

CREATING A PIED-Á-TERRE IN MEXICO CITY

Colonia Roma (see my last post) has become one of the most desirable neighborhoods in Mexico City, and it's attracting increasing numbers of foreigners. I wrote a previous post about an American/French couple who retired there.

When my friend Brad (an American who lives in Mexico and New Orleans) first told me about his new apartment in Roma, I thought he was joking.

“It’s on top of an fabulous art-deco building. You walk down a narrow alleyway, past the old incinerator, up a rattling metal staircase, then zigzag through lots of laundry cages to get there. It’s got five rooms and a tiny balcony that overlooks a synagogue. Oh--and it all measures 32 square meters.”

Five rooms? Thirty-two square meters (about 350 square feet)? It sounded like a dollhouse to me. I was skeptical.

Brad found his apartment by walking around the neighborhood and writing down the phone numbers of any ‘for sale’ signs he saw.

“I covered every street in Roma. I looked for about 10 days to find this apartment. It’s the only building in the neighborhood designed by Francisco Serrano, the architect of many art-deco gems in La Condesa. Unfortunately, the building is in a sorry state. Nobody pays maintenance, so nothing gets repaired. But I’m up on the roof in my own little world. It was pretty awful when I found it,” he confessed. “But the place had good bones and the price was right.”

As a foreigner, he needed a permit, which cost about 600 dollars, to buy the property, . “In general, the buying process went quite smoothly. I had to find three Mexican citizens to vouch for my character. That was a little odd but it all worked out, and now I have the escritura (deed) in my name.”

Three months later he invited me over for champagne to celebrate the completion of his renovation. After climbing and zigzagging to his rooftop hideaway, I was amazed to see what a combination of daring and imagination had achieved. This doll’s house is a real home.

The apartment has a funky, retro look, while maintaining the integrity of the original architecture. The boldest move was to paint the living room, dining room and bedroom all one color. Even the ceilings are a vivid pink (Comex bugambilia).

“I jumped when I first saw the color chip,” Brad confessed. “But once the apartment was furnished, and lit up with carefully placed lighting, it took on a warm glow. I painted the ceilings the same color so there wouldn’t be lines to show how small the apartment really is.”

The tiny bathroom is completely covered in half-inch glass tiles—six different colors in a random pattern that creates a lively feel. The tiles undulate over pipes and bumps in the wall, giving it an organic, slightly humorous look.

A small balcony faces the street, and there's an outdoor dining area in the jaula, a fenced-in area that was used to house the gas tanks and to hang laundry. "Having a bit of outdoor space makes a huge difference," said Brad. "Otherwise the place might feel claustrophobic."

The furniture is an eclectic mix gathered from flea markets and antique stores. “Some things were really inexpensive, like the sky-blue floor tiles in the kitchen--they practically gave them to me. What I spent the most money on, by far, is the portrait over the sofa of an Indian girl by Alfonso X. Peña, a contemporary of Diego Rivera who hasn’t yet gotten the recognition he deserves.”

“I’m not sure I’d have the nerve to do this kind of thing anywhere else but in Mexico. There’s something about the light, about the culture in general, that makes strong colors feel natural. It’s one of the things that keeps me coming back. And I love living in Colonia Roma--it's constantly changing and getting better all the time.”

Brad spent about $30,000 to buy his apartment and other $15,000 to renovate and furnish it. Once you own property in Mexico City the expenses are reasonable, e.g. his property tax last year was a whopping 195 pesos (about $16 US--yes that's sixteen dollars, not a typo).

If you're thinking of moving to Mexico City check out my previous blog for more tips.

Note: Read my review of Colonia Roma's hip Hotel Brick at www.luxurylatinamerica.com--a great place for a drink and people watching.

WHERE TO EAT FOR FIESTAS PATRIAS?--ASK THE EXPERTS!

It's Fiestas Patrias time again, so that means food, and lots of it. Belt-expanding breakfasts, long, leisurely comidas, and visits to those late night taco stands are all part of the celebration. If you're not lucky enough to be invited to some abuela's house for comida, don't despair. You can still find the best food in Mexico City with a little help from the experts. I asked three residents of Mexico City who are known for their culinary expertise to tell us their favorite places to eat.

Nicholas Gilman, Lesley Tellez and Cristina Potters all write passionately about food, love to cook, and love to eat. They all blog regularly about food in Mexico City and beyond.

Nicholas Gilman is the author of 'Good Food in Mexico City'. To visit his blog click here. "There are more than 30,000 registered places to eat, so five isn't easy, but here goes," he said.

1. Contramar (Durango 200, Colonia Roma) - Excellent seafood, relaxed atmosphere. Try the pescado a la talla. Lunch time only, no reservations. (Their website: www.contramar.com.mx)

2. El Caguamo (Ayuntamiento, corner Aranda, Centro). The best puesto for seafood in the city--even the owner of Contramar eats here! (Read about both places here.)

3. Coox Hanal (Isabel la Católica 83, Centro) The best Yucatecan food in el DF--and I've tried them all. I love their pan de cazón. (Read Nick's blog post here.)

4. El Huequito (Ayuntamiento 21, centro) A little hole in the wall that does exquisite tacos al pastor, which are uniquely Defeño. (Read more here.)

5. Merotoro (Av. Amsterdam 204, Condesa) This is my favorite place for 'creative' cuisine. The menu constantly evolves, taking advantage of the amazing seasonal variety in Mexico. (Read more here.)

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Lesley Téllez blogs about Mexican food and culture in The Mija Chronicles. She also gives street food, taco and market tours through her company Eat Mexico. "Places I can walk or ride my bike to are more likely to become favorites," she confessed.

1. Tacos Gus. My favorite tacos guisados in the city. Get the swiss chard, calabacitas, or the green chorizo with potato (Amsterdam 171, Colonia Condesa). (See article.)

2. Merotoro. My husband and I like to go here when we want to splurge on a nice dinner. I love the crusty bread dunked in Baja olive oil, and the Ulloa wine. (Avenida Amsterdam 204, Colonia Condesa).

3. Tlacoyo and quesadilla stand in front of Mercado Medellín. (corner of Campeche and Medellín, Colonia Roma) The quesadilla de quelite drizzled with red salsa reminds me why I live in Mexico.

4. El Vislito. (formerly known as El Vipsito) Unparalleled tacos al pastor. It's only open after 10 p.m., which adds to the ambience. (Avenida Universidad near Petén, Colonia Narvarte)

5. Nicos. Traditional Mexican food made with high-quality and locally grown ingredients.(Av. Cuitlahuac 3102, Colonia Azcapotzalco). Read Lesley's blog post about this. "Well worth the trip to Azcapotzalco!" she notes.

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Cristina Potters shares her vast experience with Mexican food on her blog http://www.mexicocooks.typepad.com/ "I've eaten in 28 of Mexico's 31 states, plus Mexico City. These five popped up as first thoughts."

1. El Bajio, Classic Mexican food from star chef Carmen Tititia. Now in several locations, but the original in Azcapotzalco is still the best. http://carnitaselbajio.com.mx/

2. El Portalito, A simple fonda in Colonia Condesa which offers a great comida corrida. (Read about it on Cristina's blog post.

3. Jaso, High-end cocina de autor in Polanco. http://jaso.com.mx/

4. Rokkaku, Peruvian-Japanese fusion? Who knew? Read this for more information.

5. Tortas Los Compadres, On Calle Chilpancingo near the metro--reliable tortas.

VIVA MEXICO Y BUEN PROVECHO!

Also check out Ruth Alegria's food blog: http://www.ruthincondechi.com/2011/09/el-grito.html

MY MEXICO CITY: Headline News

Recently, my friend Roberta was viewing the Mexico City marathon from her balcony in Polanco. She watched the runners, the cheering crowds, and a few folks dressed as clowns as they passed by. Wanting to share this simple pleasure of life outside her window, she sent an email with photos to several friends back in the States.

"A few wrote back really surprised," she told me. "Weren't you afraid something would happen, like a stray bullet hitting you or a bomb exploding?" one of them wrote. "They don't expect anything normal like a marathon to be going on in Mexico City."

Hearing this story reminded me, once again, of the skewed impression many people get of life here in Mexico City by reading and watching the news. News media feed on the sensational. A headline that shrieks about eight decapitated bodies found in a cantina makes more compelling copy than one that describes several thousand people running 26 miles with their heads attached.

But the truth for me and Roberta is that life in our big city is much more peaceful, pleasant, and just plain normal than what the media suggests. So I thought to myself, "Hey, I worked for a newspaper once. I'll just go out and find some headlines myself, normal headlines about my Mexico City."

The sun finally made an appearance today, so I set out with my camera (carefully hidden in a plain bag, along with my journalistic license) to see what I could find. I recorded all of what follows within a few blocks of my home in Colonia Condesa. If you see any more good headline news out there, let me know!

TWO WOMEN PUSH STROLLERS ACROSS STREET--ALL FIVE LIVE!

"It was quite an ordeal, but we're much better now," said Leticia Burbujas, 32, one of the survivors. "The kids are so young they probably won't remember it."

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PHONY BAGELS FOUND IN CONDESA GOURMET SHOP

"They're awful," says ex-New Yorker and long time Mexico City resident, accountant Moishe Pipkin, 53. "Soft and spongy--these people don't know from bagels."...

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CLOCK IN PUBLIC PARK TELLS CORRECT TIME

For more than a year now this clock in Parque Mexico has been giving the right time, and neighbors are not happy about it. "How can I explain that I'm an hour late when I have that thing staring at me," complained dental assistant Marta Pantorrilla, 39...

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AMID SWIRLING TRAFFIC, SEXY STATUE IS IGNORED

"It's disgusting," complained Evelyn Wright, 61, formerly of Boston, whose living room window has a view of the statue. "There are naked statues all over Colonia Roma. This one has a penis! Not as big as that David statue in the Plaza Rio de Janiero, but it still isn't right! These Mexicans just don't care!"...

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BLONDE FOREIGNERS DRINK FRESHLY SQUEEZED ORANGE JUICE

When asked their names the two fled, but Ciro Sanchez, 16, who was squeezing oranges at the time, had the story. "They were very concerned that I not put ice in their drinks," he noted. "But they seemed happy. One of them told me, 'This tastes just like orange juice--only better'"...

THE POPE'S BLOOD

I've lived in Mexico for fifteen years and occasionally settle into a complacent feeling that I really know what's going on here. And then I see something like this news headline:

Capsule containing Pope John Paul II's blood heading to Mexico

and I begin to question it all over again.

The blood, displayed in a new handcrafted reliquary, along with other items relating to the pope's life, wil

l be on display in Mexico City's Cathedral from Sept. 5-9 and will travel around the country through December. John Paul II, who was beatified (first step toward sainthood) in May, has made five official visits to Mexico and is a figure of adoration here.

The connection between religion and blood--large quantities of it--has a history in Mexico that pre-dates the arrival of the Spaniards. You can find long descriptions of Aztec human sacrifice, literally heart-rending, in early missionary chronicles. Graphic images of a blood-drenched Christ are common in churches here. And of course, the 'blood of Christ' is an essential element of Catholic mass everywhere.

According to Rev. Manuel Corral, public relations secretary for Mexico's Council of Bishops, "In the perception of a Mexico plunged into terror, pain, hopelessness, anguish, vengeance and rancor as a result of insecurity and violence ... the veneration of the relics will be an opportunity for the baptized and pe

ople of good will to turn their eyes to God."

I received a Catholic education as a child, but

it did not prepare me for the Church I found in Mexico. The first clues that something was different were the crepe paper and balloon decorations I saw in a chapel in Oaxaca. The sightings of the Virgin Mary in a tortilla or on a paving stone in the metro were new to me, as were the dancers clad in Aztec attire that attend many religious festivals, and the pilgrims crawling on hands and knees to reach the Basilica of the Virgin of Guadalupe. There's a rambunctious, slightly pagan aspect to religion here, something that reaches back into the pre-Hispanic past, searching beyond the gospels, into the codices, the glyphs, to where the plumed serpent and the robed madonna meet.

The Bishops' Council has asked organized crime groups in Mexico to give the folks a break--no kidnappings, shootings or decapitations, please--in the presence of the sacred blood. Nothing else seems to be working, so why not? A lot of blood has been shed in the 'war against drugs' in Mexico. Maybe it's time to just stop and meditate upon it.

Disclosure: I am being compensated for my work in creating content for the Mexico Today program.

All stories, opinions, however, are completely my own.