Showing posts with label #CDMX. Show all posts
Showing posts with label #CDMX. Show all posts

Tuesday, October 1, 2019

Colonia Condesa



    I was out for a Sunday stroll when this caught my eye..



They keep coming down! Another building damaged in the earthquake of September 19, 2017 is being demolished. We live with the rubble, we live with the uncertainty that the ground beneath our feet can move at any time. 

Thursday, May 23, 2019

CDMX: On the street in Colonia Roma


A recent addition to the streets of Colonia Roma are these murals surrounding a parking lot at the confounding intersection of Insurgentes, Yucatan and Medellin (right across from the Hotel Roosevelt). Most of them are on Yucatan, a street that gets little pedestrian traffic. Dedicated to migrants, the scenes of horror outweigh those of joy. It's pretty powerful street art--take a look. 






































Wednesday, March 13, 2019

How to deal with an eyesore

The Edifico Insurgentes in Colonia Roma norte long ago went from landmark to eyesore (see story below), but recently got a quick makeover in the form of many gallons of orange paint. If you look close, the old gal is still a mess, but the cover up certainly perks up the skyline of Mexico City.


Previous blog post:



Buildings with tilted walls, crumbling facades, rusting metalwork, broken planters, cracked and bulging sidewalks are common sights in Mexico City, the effect often heightened by proximity to some gleaming new high-rise. There is a notable tendency here to let things go to wrack and ruin, financial investment be damned. Depending on the mood I’m in, I can see it as a charming reminder of the temporal nature of life, or an indication of a complete lack of civic pride. But there's no denying that decrepitude is one of the characteristics that defines this city. Learning to appreciate this quality, like one would the nicks and scars on a piece of antique furniture, is necessary in order to fall in love with Mexico City. 


Among the most remarkable examples of this phenomenon is the high-rise Edificio Insurgentes (Insurgentes 300, between Zacatecas and Guanajuato), known by many here as the Canada Building, for a huge sign that once adorned it. Inaugurated in 1958, it was the most fashionable address in its day for the offices of politicians, doctors and lawyers. Now its a veritable urban ghost town. 

Its heyday lasted about 10 years, and then things started to go downhill. The earthquake of 1985 was the nail in the coffin, but a fire, and the murder of a tenant didn’t help. Spirits of those killed in the fire supposedly haunt the 15th and 16th floors. 


Elevators no longer work, graffiti covers much of the ground floor, and upper floors are a hodge-podge of slapdash additions and makeshift alterations. In 2012 the city ejected the remaining tenants and closed the building. Rumor has it that it was being used as a halfway house for illegal immigrants from Nicaragua.

Take a look from across the street to fully appreciate the weirdness of this once grand edifice.

I think all this physical instability helps create a flexible and resilient culture. If you can't trust the ground under your feet, you must seek security elsewhere, preferably from within. Mexicans are the most Buddhist-like of westerners, embracing instability, change, decay and death as normal parts of daily life. Perhaps the remarkable calm one experiences here (at least as compared to my former hometown, New York City) is a result of this acceptance. The phrase ni modo (literally “no way,” sort of a resigned shrug) is more often heard in response to situations beyond one’s control than anything more aggressive or confrontational. A popular song by the beloved ranchera composer José Alfredo Jimenez has the refrain “no vale nada la vida” (life is worth nothing), sung to a sweet and lilting waltz melody. Mexicans of all ages know it by heart.  


                                     More images of decay in Mexico City: 



                                                Calle Puebla in Colonia Roma Norte



                                               Insurgentes and Niza in the Zona Rosa



                                             Abandoned penthouse in the Zona Rosa 
                                               

                                               Abandoned store, Calle Bucareli, Centro




Broken sidewalk





A FEW HOURS AFTER I WROTE THIS BLOG POST, THIS SHOWED UP ON FACEBOOK: http://www.demotix.com/news/3904354/demolition-threatened-historical-building-mexico#media-3904337



Torre Insignia (abandoned)

And this from one of my readers:  http://garydenness.co.uk/2010/10/15/towering-desolation/ 

Thursday, June 14, 2018

Visiting Mexico City with Children

Since this is not something I focus on in my book, I wanted to share this article from the NYTimes about traveling to Mexico City with children.

https://www.nytimes.com/2018/06/13/travel/mexico-city-family-travel.html

Thursday, May 31, 2018

The Best Seat in the House

 
Now that I have a dog I'm taking even more pleasure in Parque México, that little island of green in Colonia Condesa. Late afternoon is a great time to go--the sun is lower, so things have cooled down, and the light is glorious.
A fairly recent addition to the neighborhood is a branch of Churros y Chocolate El Moro, whose original location in the Centro Histórico has been around for almost a century.
Facing the park at the corner of Michoacán, El Moro offers rocking chairs where you can sit and dunk those sugary crunch churros into a thick steaming mug of hot chocolate. Does it get any better than this in Mexico City?
For more on Parque México, click HERE.











                      Lucy, resting after her run around the park

Tuesday, October 3, 2017

Seismic changes

I was on a train in Massachusetts, noticiing the first signs of autumn color, when I got the text from my partner Nick in Mexico City: "Another earthquake!"
I was travelling to Keene, New Hampshire, where my father lives, to celebrate his 97th birthday. He wanted Chinese food. Between bites of Mu Shu pork and General Tzo's chicken I kept checking my phone. As the horriffic images kept piling up on Facebook, I realized the tragedy that was unfolding back home. The urge to jump on the next plane was mixed with relief that I did not have to be a witness to death and destruction.
As I watched the vast outpouring of aid offered by my fellow Mexicans, I felt some relief at not being part of the rescue efforts. But as I observed and spoke to my father over the next 24 hours, I realized I was part of another kind of rescue mission: dad had reached the point where he could no longer take care of himself.
He had been in the same apartment building for almost 40 years, and aside from a few isolated episodes (he broke his shoulder last summer and had meals-on-wheels delivered for a few months),
he'd led a fiercely independent life. He did all his shopping, cooking, cleaning and laundry. And he still drives. My sister had managed to get him to hire a home aide a while back, but after a few months he fired her. "I don't need her. I like doing my own laundry," he told me.
Over the past 6 months, however, I'd noticed a slow but steady decline in his physical powers, especially walking. And when he admitted it, I knew it must be serious. When a stoic complains, it's time to listen.
The process of convincing him to move into an assisted living facility--something he swore he would never do--was not easy. But I wasn't captain of my high school debate team for nothing.
Within four days I had packed, given away, or thrown out all of his possessions, moved what was left to his new place, and set it up to look like home. While dad is definitely not 'happy' yet in his new abode, I have no doubt that he will be soon. And all of us who love him are left with the security that he is well taken care of.
For my newly homeless friends in Mexico City (I count 8 so far) the future is less certain. I returned Sunday night and spent yesterday walking around Condesa and Roma, surprised at how 'normal' everything seemed--until it wasn't. Most buildings appear unscathed, but suddenly the sight of cracked concrete, broken windows, a wall of plywood where a building once stood yanked the breath of of me. Groups of rescue workers in yellow vests and hard hats pass by, ambulance and police sirens screech, and helicopters rush overhead. These are the pain filled moments that mix with the beauty of life, which still abounds here. I've had wonderful encounters with neighbors I formerly only nodded hello to, everyone eager to share--and hopefully disperse--the fear and anxiety that overcame them all as the earth moved below their feet. The most uplifting thing I saw yesterday was a group of city workers planting flowers along the sidewalk on a traffic-clogged street in La Roma.
We are living in an alternative universe where sleep is evasive and emotions ride the waves. Who knows how long it will take for before the echo of tragedy fades away? Whatever the case, September 19, 2017 will remain one of those before/after dates for generations to come. 






Tuesday, April 25, 2017

Art Exhibit at the Palacio de Bellas Artes: Pinta la Revolución


Watercolor sketch for a ballet costume by Diego Rivera (1931)


You only have until May 7 to see the top notch exhibit of art inspired and influenced by the Mexican Revolution, currently on view at the Palacio de Bellas Artes in Mexico City.
This must-see show includes works by some big names in Mexican art history like Rivera, Kahlo, Tamayo, Orozco and Siquieros (whose early watercolor scenes of brothels are like nothing you've seen of his before), and many other lesser-known artists that you will be glad to know. I highly recommend this show.

Click link below for more information:

 http://www.inba.gob.mx/actividad/1691/pinta-la-revolucion-arte-moderno-mexicano-1910-1950





                                    Manuel Rodriguez Lozano, El Holocausto (1944)




                                          Juan O'Gorman La Ciudad de México (1949, detail)




                                             Maria Izquierdo Altar de Dolores (1949)

Monday, April 17, 2017

An Easter morning stroll through Colonia Condesa

The light was crystalline, the air was clear, and the streets were almost deserted--a perfect morning to stroll through Colonia Condesa. Happy Easter.